|
J Matthes If there is one thing I can't stand, it's closed vision port slits. With today's molding technology, I would hope that this becomes a thing of the past, but for now, I find myself gouging styrene. The most recent kit I've been working on is DML's Pz IV E. This one offers a few different armored covers, so is a good subject to show two different techniques for this operation. Please be careful doing this, not only for your own safety, but usually there is only one shot per kit. So I don't (or DragonCare) get flooded with emails about ruined kit pieces, please either practice on a spare or be confident in your abilities. Drill n Putty For the larger opening, I take the easy road. Using a pin vise bit, I carefully drill from backside a series of holes in the existing molded slit.   Once drilled, a hobby knife can be used to open up the lines. It's important to try to keep the lower as straight as possible.  Next is to fill the slit with ApoxieSculpt to bring it back to a realistic opening size. It's not critical (or possible) to get this perfect at this point. Let it sit overnight and you can easily tighten up the lines.  You may notice a slight wave to the slit. No worries, after it's in place and primed (or preshaded), you can go over it again if it isn't completely even. Small touchups are much easier once you have some paint in place. Often, a coat of paint alone may even it out, considering the size of these bits. 
Drill n Styrene n Putty (oh my) This is for smaller slits or if you have trouble keeping the line straight with Aves. It's just one extra step and quite effective preserving a clean edge. In this technique, I use strip stock. You can also use part of the sprue label area. That styrene is usually a bit harder than Evergreen and may be easier to keep a nice edge. First up, drill it out and square it off, don't be scared, I know it's a huge hole (Be careful, these parts are very hard to hold and cut).  Cut a piece of stock (or sprue) that is the same size as the opening. You must keep track of the factory edge from this point on, you may want to mark it to avoid confusion. Once cut, dry fit.   Now, you need a shim the size of the opening. PE fret (I know you have some) is perfect, even if you need to double it up. Placing the factory edge (you kept track right?) against the shim, dry fit the cut pieces and shim in the opening.   With the shim in place, hit the backside with some liquid cement and let dry. Once set, cut where the glue and brass meet to break the seal and carefully pull out the shim. I suggest pulling it out the back for a cleaner removal.  Cut the plastic flush, carefully preserving the outside, flat edge.  Hit it with some ApoxieSculpt and clean it up. Again, the final touch up will be easier after the first shot of paint.   
J Matthes resides in New York where he's looking out the window through very, very tiny plastic slits.  copyright©2006 ausfwerks |