 Quick and Accurate Paint Chipping J Matthes The debate regarding the appropriate amount of paint chipping on AFVs will always be with us as modelers. Irrespective of opinions of how much; any machinery that is subject to much use and abuse, let alone battle, will have some damage to it's paint. (Tigerfibel, the German Tiger crewman's manual, mentions the scrapping of loose paint) I have tried every technique I have come across for creating accurate scratches. For the most part, the techniques I have found, fall into two camps: painting on top or masking. I feel whenever painting on top of the base color, there will always be a slight add-on appearance. I mean no offense whatsoever, there really is no way around it, when you add a layer on top, it's very tough to make it look like it's beneath. I've also tried the salt technique (a simple mask), but find it time consuming and inconsistent. I've even experimented with a twist on salt, using Gelatin in different formulas to paint small blobs where I wanted the undercoat to remain visible (this didn't work as I discovered cured gelatin may be the strongest glue known to mankind). I have found for myself, K.I.S.S. works. Paint and brush:  You Want Chips and Scratches? Go scratch... If you want a surface to look like paint has been chipped, scuffed, eroded, bullet dimpled, boot-stripped or otherwise damaged, the best way is to go ahead and do it. Basically, take an appropriate tool (X-acto in this case) and remove the paint you want removed. The intention here is to show the abuse the driver's boots may cause using the forward hatch on this Marder II. Be careful not to gouge the styrene unless you intend to represent serious damage.   Our Friend: Capillary Action By thinning paint to a watery consistency, in this case Vallejo acrylics and distilled water, capillary action will help the paint find it's way into the corners of your scratches, appearing to be underneath the topcoat. The following photos will show how the surface tension and dispersion works. The same thing will happen on the unpainted plastic as does on the foil shown.   Applying this to the areas you cleared, the paint will find it's way. In this case I used Natural Steel. Alter the color choice based on circumstances; primer, rust, oily steel, etc. Make sure to wipe away any excess from the surrounding area before drying, but resist the urge to touch the chip itself, even if it appears a bit raised. It should drop down nice and tight once the water evaporates. Vallejos dry very quick, you'll see the results right away.  After a bit of MIG pigment (Europe dust) in the corners...  And how it will be seen when buttoned up...   Two steps, fast and easy results. 
J Matthes resides in New York where he's chipping his car to make it appear more realistic.  copyright©2006 ausfwerks |